"Perhaps the most impressive of all the cookbook blogs are the three devoted to the 2004 edition of Gourmet magazine's "The Gourmet Cookbook" -- all 5¼ pounds and 1,300-odd recipes of it. Befitting this culinary Everest, all three writers are overachievers in their professional lives."

--Lee Gomes, The Wall Street Journal, May 28, 2008
"I should have told you before how much I've been enjoying reading your thoughts. You seem like such a great cook."

--Ruth Reichl, Editor-in-Chief of Gourmet Magazine, June 8 2008, comment on "Chocolate Velvet Ice Cream".

Showing posts with label basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label basics. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Ras el Hanout (Moroccan Spice Blend)

What do you do on a rainy Sunday 12-hour shift, when you're getting paid to cook but there's not much actual cooking to do?

OK, I'm sure you can think of a lot of things, like reading the New York Times or watching a movie on tv. Or maybe even something totally radical, like dusting.

But what if you want to create something? Check out the Basics chapter, that's what you do.

Stocks, marinades, spice rubs, it's chock-full of things to make that will last for awhile in a freezer or a cupboard. They are fun to do, and make the house smell good.

Ras el Hanout is an exotic blend of spices. A lot of them.



These are mostly whole spices that you grind in a coffee grinder, with a few pre-ground ones added at the end (like ginger and mace). Sesame seeds add body and nuttiness to the mix.

The most exciting part of this recipe, for me, was that it calls for grinding up a cinnamon stick along with the peppercorns and whatnot.

If you look at a cinnamon stick



it just doesn't look like something that will grind up easily. In fact, it looks like something that will jam the blades and burn out the motor. I was extremely apprehensive.

But--it ground up like a dream--in fact, it didn't even linger as large chunks that needed extra grinding, like I was expecting. Here's the finished product:



I wish this were scratch-and-sniff! The aroma is incredible.

This spice mix, says the book, is great on chicken, lamb or beef, or stirred into couscous or rice. I'll be using it for one of the remaining recipes in the Poultry chapter, Individual B'stillas. Stay tuned!

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Fish Stock




Fish Stock is one of those basic recipes stuck in the back of any cookbook that you almost never get around to making because you a) don't want to follow their recipe, you want to do it your way b) maybe you don't quite have access to the ingredients (and then see a)

For me and this fish stock, it was all about b. It calls for a fish rack, which should be easy to find in the fishing capital of the universe, but I just never felt like wandering down to the docks and asking those big burly men if I could have some of that garbage they're about to tote away.

But--enter my friend Pat Scida, who likes to fish, and has been promising me for TWO YEARS that he would bring me a fish rack. Finally he remembered this past week and not only did I get a lovely bag full of bones and fish heads, but some nice, icy cold haddock fillets to boot.

So on the way to work I stopped at the market and got the other stuff--a fennel bulb, lemons, parsley--and made it this morning.

Folks, this is good stuff. Lemon juice and white wine add a little bit of tang to the natural salty, fishy goodness of the broth. I can't wait to use it a million different ways.

I will confess that I had intended to make Pike Quenelles with White Wine and Mushroom Sauce, but it just seemed too fussy and heavy for this hot humid weather. Watermelon! Cold soups! Wine Coolers! (well. not at work)